RealTwin Beam Splitter User Instructions and Tips
Parts Available: The Beam Splitter main unit (with the mirrors), Main Adapter Ring (55mm) and 2 step-up adapter rings 49-55mm, 52-55mm and instruction sheet.
If using the beamsplitter with the front-surface mirror please remove the protective blue film from the mirrors before using. Peel from the corner.
1) Attaching the Beam Splitter to your Camera. (If you are using an Ambico or Kenko filter system holder on your camera, skip to #3.) Note that no matter what filter thread size is on your camera lens, you MUST first snap the 55mm adapter ring onto the Beam Splitter. It is easier if you insert one flange of the 55mm ring into the adapter hole, and line the opposite flange up with the wider part of the hole labeled "OPEN". Then rotate the ring slightly to lock it onto the beam splitter. (See Picture 1)
2) If your camera lens has a 55mm filter thread, then screw it onto the lens as shown in Picture 2. Please note that "normal" 50mm to 55mm lens focal lengths for 35mm SLR cameras are recommended. If your lens has a 49mm or 52mm thread, then use the step-up rings that are included for those sizes. Other size step-up or step-down rings may be purchased at your local camera store.
3) If your lens filter thread size is larger than 58mm, or you are already using a 76mm Ambico or Kenko square filter holder, then mount the holder to your camera first, then slide the Franka Beam Splitter unit into the holder as shown in Picture 3, being sure that the large back hole of the beam splitter and of the filter holder are aligned properly.
TAKING THE STEREO PHOTO
1) View your subject through your SLR viewfinder, making sure that the two photo images are at the same level by rotating the beam splitter. Note that when the two images are level in the viewfinder, the beam splitter unit may be slightly off level in relation to the camera. This is a normal situation, due to the fact that these are not high precision units.
2) While looking through the viewfinder, check to see that you essentially have the same image composition for both the right and left sides. One or both outer mirrors may be pivoted to make adjustments, however, having the mirrors pivoted outwards all the way is the normal position for shooting subjects 6 feet (2 meters) and beyond. Adjust the mirror angle inwards for subjects in the 3 to 6 foot range. There is no calibration for this you must try to keep the image composition essentially the same for both sides, and learn to visually align the mirrors.
3) The optimum aperture settings for your camera are from F:5.6 to F:8. Normally no exposure compensation is needed, but autofocus SLR's may not be able to focus on automatic.
Viewing THE STEREO PHOTOS
1) For stereo prints you may have to tell your lab to manually set their printing machines, to compensate for the black line down the middle of the print. For standard 4" x 6" prints, we recommend our Lorgnette or RealTwin print viewer. For 3.5" x 5" prints we recommend our Miniscope, RealTwin or our Lorgnette. 2) 3-D slides may be viewed mounted in standard 2" x 2" mounts if you have a beam Splitter 3-D Viewer; (we do not provide these). Otherwise, they maybe cut apart and mounted in separate half-frame size 2" x 2" mounts, or in the half frame size stereo mounts.
OTHER USER TIPS:
1) Be sure glass surfaces are clean before using.
2) Avoid shooting into the sun. Having the sun behind you will give the best results.
3) For good 3-D effect have foreground (4 to 7 feet) middle ground (8 to 20 feet) and background (25 feet to Infinity) subjects in each picture. Without any foreground and/or middle ground your picture will appear flat.
4) For prints we have found that there is a wide variation in the way that labs expose their prints, and that many "1 hour" type labs tend to print on the light side. Tell the lab that you prefer prints with more SATURATED COLOR (a bit darker) for richer and more colorful prints.
5) Never shoot with the camera and beam splitter in the vertical position. Trust us on this.
Thanks to David Starkman and Susan Pinsky of Reel 3D their contributions to these instructions.
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